The Cattleya Alliance encompasses many well
known Genera such as; Cattleya, Epidendrum, Encyclia, Laelia,
Sophronitis & Brassovola, just to name a few. What many people
do not realize is that it also contains many more obscure Genera like;
Alamania, Arpophyllum, Barkeria, Neolauchea, Psychilis, Quisqueya,
& Tetramicra as well as many others.
The guidelines below are necessarily general since
there are far too many variables in the habitats of the many genera &
species to allow a more precise outline of culture. If you have questions
about certain plants you may call, write, or email me.
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As a general rule, majority of the species will do well with a minimum
night temperature of 55-60F and it is also customary to provide a minimum
15 degree rise in daytime temperatures. Summer daytime highs of up to
90F are seldom a problem as long as sunburn doesn't occur (see "light",
below). There are also a number of species/genera that are cooler growers
although they too can often be accommodated when one realizes that many
of those may only need the cooler weather in the winter, or a seasonal
cooler/drier rest.
- For
the majority, assume a fairly high light level. Most often, growers
will provide 2500-3000 foot-candles, roughly double the level given
to Phalaenopsis. Many of the Hybrids and some of the dark-flowered species
will produce somewhat purple-tinted (colored with anthocyanin) foliage
when exposed to very bright light and sometimes when grown too cool
& bright. A little tinting is fine but a lot of foliage color is
an undesirable. ("Sunburn" is a condition that most any plant
can acquire. It is manifests itself as a brown/black patch that most
often develops on the flat surfaces of the leaves, on the sides most
directly facing the light source. It is caused by the internal tissue
temperature rising to a point where it causes tissues' death. All high-light
plants can be "overdone" during the transitions between seasons,
with the lengthening of the days or even on a clear, bright winter day
following a dark/dreary autumn. Too high of an air temperature along
with excessive light levels will increase the chances of problems. Additional
air movement sometimes will help prevent leaf overheating and still
allow the plant to receive bright light levels.)
- Here's
a somewhat easier topic; When the foliage is thick & leathery and
the plant has substantial pseudobulbs = assume that the plant must dry
out considerably between watering. When the foliage is thin textured
and there are no pseudobulbs = assume that the plant must seldom dry
excessively and that the plant may want less light than others. When
you see plants with very reduced leaves, or those with "low profiles"
such as "pencil-like" (terete) leaves, they are oftentimes
the most light loving of all.
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The requirements here will vary considering the genera & species
involved. Most often, ranges or 50-70% are preferred. Typically this
family of orchids is somewhat forgiving with regards to Humidity, the
exceptions being some of the more "cloud forest" oriented
species which will, of course, prefer it uniformly higher (Sophronitis,
Nanodes, Diothanaea, Neocogniauxia).
- Traditionally,
these plants are grown potted and usually in a basic bark-based mix.
Nearly all of the genera & species are epiphytic (growing on other
living things), therefore they will grow just as well or possibly even
better when mounted. Since we are also discussing many of the less well-known
genera too, let it suffice to say that many of the more obscure ones
may do best when mounted to slabs of cork, tree-fern, or other similar
strata.
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Most traditional recommendations work fine here = Balanced fertilizer(20-20-20,
18-18-18,etc.) mixed 1/2 strength, applied every couple to third week.
A the beginning of the spring, a higher nitrogen-type fertilizer may
be given, if needed. As in many other Genera, do consider that
many of the cooler, moister-growing, "Cloud Forest" types
seem to prefer a more dilute and less frequent feeding schedule that
their more robust lowland counterparts.
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